We have arrived for 3 days here on the ancient Venetian harbor of Chania.  We are in a hotel for these 3 days,  in a quiet space on the harbor.   The Casa Leone.  This house dates to the 15th century and had an amazing history,  even used as a Nazi HQ during their occupation.

The story of the hotel is very interesting.   I hope you can see some of the detail.

We walked a bit to get a feel for the old town this afternoon and stopped for a gyro plate before turning in tonight.   The weather looks like it will remain windy and cold,  50 °, for the next few days.   I hope we get a little more sun!

We bought a little Pastry to have with our coffee in the morning.   They are beautiful here, and delicious.  But they couldn’t top the hands made Baklava we had in Rethymno!.

More old town, walking around the fort and toward the inner harbor

One little side note,  a serendipity, if you will,  … today,  Friday,  we noticed many young American men,  military age,  and when several were eating in the same restaurant tonight,  we asked.   They are Navy,  their ship is stationed off Crete.

https://www.navy.mil/Press-Office/Press-Releases/display-pressreleases/Article/4056366/truman-strike-group-units-arrive-in-greece-for-port-visit/

Our last full day in Chania, we took a drive around the neighboring hills.

When we left Chania, headed back to Heraklion on Feb 9, we were able to see the USS Harry Truman,  aircraft carrier, 75  which was in port in Souda bay.   Our was moored across the bay from the highway along with the USS Jason Dunham. 109. 

A few days later,  on Feb 12, the Truman was involved in an accident at sea near Egypt.  We had seen so many young American kids of the ship in Chania, I sure hope they are all ok and there were no injuries.

On our way to Chania, we decided to take a little trip inland a bit to see the Arkadi Monastery.  it was not exactly smooth driving.   Believe the signs!

The monsieur community  was established in the 13th century,  but is known as the place where the Ottomans attacked in 1866 and all the residents,  monks,  families,  everyone chose to blow themselves up rather than submit to Ottoman rule.  First we visited the church.

Then the buildings surrounding it.

We passed through many olive groves, some of ancient trees.

As we head toward Chania, we had an overlook of Rethymno

Rethymno has a history 1000 years old.  The fortress was built in 16th c to guard against Ottoman invasion.  We were able to walk along the old Venetian harbor and up to the fortress today.   It was extremely windy and chilly! 

The fortress

We say a little Amazing grace in the mosque

The views from on top were great

We walked a bit is the old town.  Many streets are shaded with wisteria vines to shade in the summer,  but that isn’t needed today.   The streets were almost empty that in summer would be crowded with tourists.

We visited the Philo workshop,  meet the son of the old baker,  and Engle some of their wonderful Philo baklava.  The small ones are made with 7 pieces of Philo rolled  to have many layers! The large Baklava is made with almost 50 layers!  It was delicious. 

The old town streets and the old venetian gate

We stopped for a cappuccino and Pastry

Life is good

Our next 2 nights we have an apartment on the coast in Rethymno, a smaller town west of Heraklion about an hour.

Our lodging

We took a walk to the end of the breakwater 2.3km each way! 

Along the way are some interesting murals and a lovely sculpture

The views of the harbor and city are a not different from this perspective,  and we can even see a mountain covered in snow!

Our last full day in Heraklion, tomorrow we pick up a car and head along the coast.

Lunch was another great Greek salad,  and Emmett had the fish soup,  with fish.  The great at the end?  Our first loukamades! 

We passed on the firewater

We visited the ruins of the ancient Minoan civilization at Knossos palace today.   We found that it is free on Sundays in the off season.   Crowds were minimal!  And the bus ride an easy 20 minutes or so.   We are learning where to walk to pick up the busses too. 

A very pleasant walk in these temperatures,  mid 60s, but i imagine quite warm in the summer.

Old venetian sea fort is our view! 

We stopped at the cathedral of St Titus, just in time for choir rehearsal.

And the men’s part

And the old walking streets of the city, visiting small squares,  central park,  fountains,  and curiosities

A capaccino on the stroll

We visited the museum of archeology to see the exhibits of Minoan artifacts.   This civilization existed beaten 1800 and 1700 years BC,  almost 4000 years ago!

Lunch was Davos, tomato puree and feta on bread,  and Pork souvlaki

A stop to buy some fruit.   Want a bunch of banana?  Chop off your own from the stalk!

I had a delicious birthday dinner!

And a delicious little chocolate with hazel nuts for my birthday cake!

We had a flight at 12:45 so we went to the airport via metro a little early to relax and have lunch in the business lounge,  one of the perks of our Chase travel credit card!  The flight was about an hour and we flew over several islands, and quite close to Santorini

We have an apartment for this next 3 nights.   It’s right on the harbor with a great view!  The top floor,  quiet,  and I’m ready for some relaxing quiet time. 

Our home for the next 4 nights.   The whole top floor, looking out onto the old sea fort and venetian harbor

We are already scoping out my birthday dinner place.   There are several restaurants just below us, along the waterfront.   Our sightseeing will be minimal for the next couple days,  but we will walk Heraklion and explore!

For those who know me well and are keeping track,  I’ve already had my fall this trip!  Just a small one,  nothing broken out bleeding!  Got that out of the way so now i can just enjoy the trip….. pun intended. 

We had a great home cooked meal in the home of Captain John and Mrs. Irini!  For 25 years they have been welcoming visitors into their home,  called the Anchorage, now that Captain John is no longer traveling!  The food was Cretean specials.   We had Saganaki, roasted red peppers with feta,  rabbit with onions and rice.   And a surprise treat for dessert,  greek yogurt with mandarin marmalade.

We walked a little after dinner,  to buy a bit of groceries for breakfasts, and some coffee.  The central park is surrounded by restaurants and shops and the people are enjoying the evening air! 

We just relaxed after breakfast sitting a but if rain. But ventured out for a late lunch and to watch a changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown in Syndagma square.

Their march is quite characteristic.

We had a nice late lunch and walked back via the ancient Roman Forum and Agora

Some of the oldest parts is Athens

We decided a coffee and roll for breakfast today would do us until lunch so we headed to a bakery close by and watched a young man making the very thin Philo dough for a type of pastry they eat here.   Tomorrow we will have to order it!  The capaccino hit the spot for me but Emmett tried Greek coffee…. very VERY strong stuff, it was like mud in the bottom of the cup. 

We walked the 0.87 mile,  1.4 km, to the museum, thru the narrow streets of the Plaka, at a great time,  few people there yet, just a couple groups of students on a field trip.   You can see on this map. Or hotel in the yellow circle,  and the museum indicated by the red box at the bottom.

The plaka area was still not quite open yet,  just a very few shops.  You walk by areas of ruins and monuments often here.

The acropolis museum sits below the acropolis with great views, from inside and outside.

Displayed are a few of the original statues and frieses of the Parthenon, the temple to Athena, but many many replicas of pieces that can be found in the British museum.  Unfortunately over the millenia since it was constructed,  many conquering parties destroyed much of its splendor.  The pieces remaining are just a hint at what it might have looked like in Socrates’ day.

The darker pieces are original marble,  and the replica pieces are stark white plaster models.

This piece would have stood at the apex of the roof of the east or west facade of the temple.  Parts of it are original but much is reconstructed.

There is a nice audio guide link available so you can go thru the exhibits at your own pace.

Outside you can look down at, and visit,  parts is the excavations of ruins found at the site is the museum.

We walked a but farther before lunch to visit Syndagma square and the guards at the parliment buildings, but we missed the changing of the guard so we will return tomorrow when there’s is more time to record that event.  Here are just a few more city sites.

Of course,  we had to have a Greek lunch!  Delicious pork Gyros!

We relaxed all afternoon and then walked to visit a couple rooftop bars for the view and then a fabulous dinner

Grilled octopus and a greek salad!  Delicious!